An interesting evening
sleeping in a Korean Traditional home …
Typical Korean home with wood stacked underneath the narrow verandah and the stove under the floor, on the right, ready to be stoked |
On arrival at our accommodation and as I was suppose to be the honoured guest, I was assigned the bedroom that would have been for a high society male
from the Joseon Dynasty. There was a small sitting room next to mine then another smaller room, probably for one of the servants to be close by in case the nobleman wanted anything during the night.
My room was large and empty except for a small
section on the floor in a corner of the room where there were tea and coffee
making facilities, obviously a modern addition to this very traditional room. There
were a couple of power points where I could charge my phone, iPad and
watch, but no Internet; all the same, I was pleased to have a few small
concessions to my traditional Korean sleeping arrangements.
The sitting room had a small table and a couple of cushions on the floor but furniture was sparse and very decorative.
The walls were lined in Hanji, the windows were covered in Hanji and the floor was also a thicker Hanji that had been oiled with a lacquer to make it strong and inflammable. I was in Hanji heaven.
Hanji lined walls |
Along one wall were cupboards where I found a set of elaborately embroidered, mustard coloured silk bedding and consisting of a thin underlay and a thicker overlay along with a rectangular hard block pillow, which was covered in a matching silk pillowcase.
Ancient Asian cultures used hard
block pillows, believing that soft pillows stole your chi/energy while you
slept. In Korea they were called mokchims.
They were often made of wood, which was reportedly cool and refreshing to make sleeping more enjoyable. Older
mokchims were 10 cm wide as they were
not meant for long periods of sleep. A person using a narrow mokchim would fall off the pillow when
he was in a deep sleep and on turning his head from left to right. Mok-chims were reportedly a great tool
to treat headaches, insomnia, high blood pressure, lumbago, and stroke.
I managed to find a softer pillow in the cupboard so I swapped it for the hard one and I rummaged around and found a few extra quilts, which I put underneath me to make sleeping a little easier on my pampered self.
When I first entered the traditional bedroom I found it to be too warm for my liking and this was due to the under floor ondol heating and I was a bit concerned when I saw burn marks on the floor under where I was going to place my bedding.
The traditional homes were built up high off the ground and had fire pits underneath them to warm particular areas. The main components of the traditional ondol are the firebox or stove (accessible from an adjoining (typically kitchen or master bedroom) room, a raised masonry floor underlain by horizontal smoke passages, and a vertical, freestanding chimney on the opposite exterior providing a draft. Stone slabs and clay cover the heated floor, supported by stone piers or baffles to distribute the smoke, and an impervious layer such as oiled paper.
Burn marks on the floor |
The traditional homes were built up high off the ground and had fire pits underneath them to warm particular areas. The main components of the traditional ondol are the firebox or stove (accessible from an adjoining (typically kitchen or master bedroom) room, a raised masonry floor underlain by horizontal smoke passages, and a vertical, freestanding chimney on the opposite exterior providing a draft. Stone slabs and clay cover the heated floor, supported by stone piers or baffles to distribute the smoke, and an impervious layer such as oiled paper.
I’ve experienced overheating in rooms before when we lived
in Korea as the apartment we use to have had a modern version of ondol where under the floor there were
a series of hot water pipes pumping hot water around to heat the room. We hunted around and soon found out where the
tap was and turned it off and managed to survive several winters quite well,
with no heating at all, as we lived on the 13th floor of an apartment block
and everyone else’s heating was enough.
I settled down for the night perspiring and a little uncomfortable
but as the evening progressed the under floor heating became less ferocious,
the temperature dropped and I dozed off to sleep.
Until around 1 am that is !!
At that time, I could hear the owner of the house stoking the fire again, putting more wood on the fire and bringing that temperature up once again.
Aahhhh. Bless him.
The next morning I awoke remarkably bright and early to a misty morning in what can only be described as an idyllic setting. I could imagine what life must have been like for the aristocracy during the Joseon period living in this beautiful tranquil setting.
Until around 1 am that is !!
At that time, I could hear the owner of the house stoking the fire again, putting more wood on the fire and bringing that temperature up once again.
Aahhhh. Bless him.
The next morning I awoke remarkably bright and early to a misty morning in what can only be described as an idyllic setting. I could imagine what life must have been like for the aristocracy during the Joseon period living in this beautiful tranquil setting.
It was another culturally enriching experience but getting up and down off the floor in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom was a challenge on every level and one which I could probably live without repeating in a hurry.
A new day had begun and I was ready for another adventure, not knowing what was in store for me but excited to be on this journey.
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